Ski Descent 3: Mt Johannesburg, CJ Couloir
Ski touring is a very healthy activity, most certainly a powerful preventative for obesity. Even amongst the most avid enthusiasts, however, a few remain overweight by some unfavorable combination of nature and too much nurture. The third installation in the Ski Sickness Descent Series comes from a friend lovingly known as FatBoy, who was quick to catch the Sickness, with his sedentary ways and accompanying depressed immune system. Given his cognomen, it should come as no surprise that his prose is more opulent than anything that precedes it. Appropriately, FatBoy's descent is right next to a road.
Mt Johannesburg, CJ Couloir
There's something about the north side of Johannesburg, as you lumber beneath, that fills your heart with lead. A vertical mile of craggy ridges and bluffs, clinging shrub trees, hanging glaciers and showering seracs raise your heart rate so that it pumps lead into your limbs. It is an angry mountain and like a school yard bully, you can't wait until school is over, so you can return to the refuge of home.
As it sits, Johannesburg stands watch on the border of the North Cascades National Park where a road winds right by its base. Originally the road was imagined as a path through the center of the range, but with lack of funds, continual slides, and washouts, it was never finished.
Nevertheless, from that effort, part of the road remains. In the summer, you can drive past Johannesburg. Most of the mountain's icy armor has melted by then. Only the Sill Glacier and a few bulging tongues of ice still cling to the mountain. These pocket glaciers scare most climbers. Serac fall and avalanche danger pose the most lethal threats from the Cascade-Johannesburg Couloir (CJ Couloir), yet it remains one of the easiest ways up the mountain. During most seasons this captivating frozen beanstalk, leading to the land of giants, begs to be skied.
Line:
Parking is at either of two gates on Cascade River Road. There is one at mile 17 and one at mile 21. It is unlikely to drive farther and still have good conditions in the couloir, but if you do count yourself a very lucky chap.
Leave the road at mile 23. A few hundred feet across Cascade River and you are at the base of the 3400ft couloir. Once you have climbed the couloir's ample apron, begin up moderate slopes of 30-35 degrees for 1000ft. Once the couloir narrows, it steepens to 40 degrees. Another 1000ft gets even steeper and takes you past the Sill Glacier and its sinister seracs. You can take a break on the upper portion. The slope may reach 50 degrees in places, but isn't exposed to icefall. Your biggest threat is whether or not the snow will be good (or stable!) enough to ski this section.
Now that you are on top, you see the rest of Johannesburg, yet to be skied. Shake your head, stow your dreams, snap those skis on your feet and prepare for flight. Be sure to start those first turns gingerly as they are on the steepest terrain. Each turn gets less committing although a fall anywhere would be a bad idea unless you have stellar conditions - good luck climbing it with that much powder! More power to you. Otherwise be sure, as you get lower, to not dilly-dally. You are once again under the watchful eye of the Sill Glacier.
With all else behind you, as you escape the snowy debris pile at the bottom, feel fortunate that it isn't your final resting place. Also, be sure to cap that joy with a thunderous yell. Of course, count yourself a lucky bastard. You just skied a Cascade jewel! Your body is light after sweating bullets until the lead loads your limbs no longer, only to feel heavy again as you review.
Ahh, The Unbearable Lightness of Skiing! (Aplogies to Milan Kundera.) Thanks for the gripping account, FatBoy. Now we know how it feels.
Season:
The best season is December-June. Too early in the season and there may not be enough snow to fill the couloir, too late and the surface is likely to be fearsome firm firn.
Mt Johannesburg, CJ Couloir
There's something about the north side of Johannesburg, as you lumber beneath, that fills your heart with lead. A vertical mile of craggy ridges and bluffs, clinging shrub trees, hanging glaciers and showering seracs raise your heart rate so that it pumps lead into your limbs. It is an angry mountain and like a school yard bully, you can't wait until school is over, so you can return to the refuge of home.
As it sits, Johannesburg stands watch on the border of the North Cascades National Park where a road winds right by its base. Originally the road was imagined as a path through the center of the range, but with lack of funds, continual slides, and washouts, it was never finished.
Nevertheless, from that effort, part of the road remains. In the summer, you can drive past Johannesburg. Most of the mountain's icy armor has melted by then. Only the Sill Glacier and a few bulging tongues of ice still cling to the mountain. These pocket glaciers scare most climbers. Serac fall and avalanche danger pose the most lethal threats from the Cascade-Johannesburg Couloir (CJ Couloir), yet it remains one of the easiest ways up the mountain. During most seasons this captivating frozen beanstalk, leading to the land of giants, begs to be skied.
Line:
Parking is at either of two gates on Cascade River Road. There is one at mile 17 and one at mile 21. It is unlikely to drive farther and still have good conditions in the couloir, but if you do count yourself a very lucky chap.
Leave the road at mile 23. A few hundred feet across Cascade River and you are at the base of the 3400ft couloir. Once you have climbed the couloir's ample apron, begin up moderate slopes of 30-35 degrees for 1000ft. Once the couloir narrows, it steepens to 40 degrees. Another 1000ft gets even steeper and takes you past the Sill Glacier and its sinister seracs. You can take a break on the upper portion. The slope may reach 50 degrees in places, but isn't exposed to icefall. Your biggest threat is whether or not the snow will be good (or stable!) enough to ski this section.
 Climbing a runnel near the top of the couloir |  Ready for the first turn: Feel the Sickness? |
Now that you are on top, you see the rest of Johannesburg, yet to be skied. Shake your head, stow your dreams, snap those skis on your feet and prepare for flight. Be sure to start those first turns gingerly as they are on the steepest terrain. Each turn gets less committing although a fall anywhere would be a bad idea unless you have stellar conditions - good luck climbing it with that much powder! More power to you. Otherwise be sure, as you get lower, to not dilly-dally. You are once again under the watchful eye of the Sill Glacier.
With all else behind you, as you escape the snowy debris pile at the bottom, feel fortunate that it isn't your final resting place. Also, be sure to cap that joy with a thunderous yell. Of course, count yourself a lucky bastard. You just skied a Cascade jewel! Your body is light after sweating bullets until the lead loads your limbs no longer, only to feel heavy again as you review.
Ahh, The Unbearable Lightness of Skiing! (Aplogies to Milan Kundera.) Thanks for the gripping account, FatBoy. Now we know how it feels.
Season:
The best season is December-June. Too early in the season and there may not be enough snow to fill the couloir, too late and the surface is likely to be fearsome firm firn.
posted by SkiSickness at 4:43 PM
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